The Surprising Benefits of Green Tripe – By Kristin Clark

Often, people ask me if there is any particular food I recommend most for species-appropriate raw diets. While I always advocate variety—various protein sources, such as chicken, beef, pork, turkey, sheep, and so on—I do also highly recommend feeding green tripe to carnivore pets regularly.


What is green tripe?

What is green tripe, you ask? Tripe is another name for the stomach of ruminating animals, such as cattle, sheep, and goats. You may have seen bleached, processed tripe at the grocery store, but when you are feeding tripe to your carnivore pets, use green tripe, which is the raw, unbleached tripe. Once the tripe is processed and bleached, it has almost no nutritional value whatsoever, but green tripe has a myriad of benefits. Interestingly, green tripe is more brown than green, but it often has a greenish tint from the hay or grass that the animal was digesting. And, because this vegetation has already been broken down and digested by the herbivore, it does not stress the carnivore’s body to consume it.

Sounds kinda gross…so why should I feed it?

When we look at the nutritional analysis of green tripe, we see that the ratio of calcium to phosphorous is about 1:1, which is exactly what our dogs need. And, the calcium and phosphorous are also bioavailable to your dog, which means that they can use all of the calcium and phosphorous supplied by the green tripe. Additionally, green tripe’s overall pH is 6.84, which is slightly acidic and good for digestion. Green tripe contains iron, potassium, zinc, and selenium, along with several other important nutrients. It also contains a large amount of Lactobacillus Acidophilus (probiotic). Green tripe contains the right proportions of Linoleic and Linolenic, which are essential fatty acids (meaning that your dog can’t make their own, but must get them from their food). Green tripe also contains digestive enzymes and amino acids, both of which are vital to supporting the health and vitality of our carnivore pets. It is important, when you feed green tripe, to choose tripe that comes from an animal that wasn’t given antibiotics or hormones, was pasture-fed, and preferably was raised organically. Otherwise, the nutrients can be greatly lessened. Feeding tripe from these types of animals will also ensure your pet gets the most nutrient-rich tripe available, and that they don’t take in anything that will cause their immune system problems.


I’ve heard tripe is worthless and a waste of time to feed…

While some people don’t feel that tripe is beneficial for our carnivore pets, I will say that, based on my own observations of my dogs and my clients’ dogs, it makes a big difference. I’ve done research, and I’ve done a lot of observations, and everything I’ve found supports the nutritional value of tripe (pasture-fed, organic, antibiotic and hormone-free tripe). I think, if you come across something that suggests you shouldn’t feed green tripe, it’s a good idea to take a step back and look at it for yourself. It’s all about being an advocate for your dogs, and doing what YOU think is best, once you’ve done your research and also observed your own dogs.

Here are the sort of questions that go through my own mind when I run into two diametrically opposed points of view, and I’m trying to figure out which is the “right” one (taking tripe as an example): When I look at the information available and nutrient analysis of green tripe, is there anything that would make me think that it’s useless and a fad to feed it? Is my hesitation about feeding it just because of the cost and the fact that someone else is telling me it’s worthless? What sort of research has that person done? Is there any evidence they can offer that would make me think their dogs are the pinnacle of health because they’ve avoided green tripe? And so on. I think it comes down to being as discerning about this as you would anything else. After all, there are lots of people that think a species-appropriate raw food diet is too expensive and is a fad, and don’t have anything to back that up. I tend to think that opinions such as saying green tripe is useless–and make no mistake–opinions like that are, in effect, dismissing whole, real, fresh food…dismissing food that wild animals and our domestic dogs eat when fed in a natural way–are in the same category as opinions that dismiss raw as a fad and no better than kibble at best and dangerous at worst. That’s my opinion, but really, like I said, I think it boils down to you being the advocate for your dogs and using discernment to decide what’s best (not just about tripe–it goes for everything that you come across with raw feeding, because there are so many differing perspectives out there).

Storing tripe

Tripe has a fairly strong smell, so you may want to store and thaw it outside, or in an airtight container if you have to put it in your refrigerator.

Where can I get it?

While there are lots of places that sell green tripe, the one I most frequently use is They are based in California, and they have excellent (and convenient) products, at reasonable prices.

How does it fit into my dog’s prey model diet?

Add green tripe into the rotation of meats you feed your carnivore pet; its nutritional value is excellent, and the probiotics, digestive enzymes, essential fatty acids, and other nutrients it contains will greatly benefit your pet. If you follow the 80/10/10 rule, you can consider tripe to be part of 80% muscle meat.


The surprising benefits of green tripe for your dog

Why No Dog with Cancer Should Eat Kibble – By Rodney Habib

“Despite the massive growth in genetic therapies, pharmaceutical and surgical technologies chronic disease is crippling mankind. […] The true solutions for cancer and many other degenerative disease processes lie in the nutritional and metabolic functions of the body […] Studies have shown that sugar is the fuel source for cancer and creates an environment of chronic inflammation that leads to other degenerative disease processes” – Dr. David Jockers

If your pet has been diagnosed with cancer (and according to today’s stats, 50% of your pets unfortunately will) it is essential that you cut back the sugar and carbs in their diets! This means if you are feeding processed kibble to your pets, you may want to rethink this strategy. 


“Cancer cells contain ten times the amount of insulin receptors as normal cells. This allows them to gobble up glucose and other nutrients from the blood stream at an accelerated rate. As long as an individual continues to provide this form of fuel the cancer will continue to grow. Those cancer patients who have the highest blood sugar readings after eating have the lowest survival rates.” – Dr.Jockers

Cancer is an organism that needs food; you can either starve it or feed it. 

Carbohydrates and starches, when consumed by your pet, are converted into sugars by the body. According to the “Nutrient Requirements of Dogs and Cats Guide”, with many commercial pet foods available on the market today, some companies are turning a profit by loading up their bags of pet food with values up to 70% carbohydrates (aka sugar)!!

National Research Council -Starch Content of some starch-rich foodstuffs and by-products used in pet foods:

Barley – 516g/kg
Oats – 400g/kg
Corn – 728 g/kg
Wheat – 621 g/kg
Peas – 410g/kg
Rice – 810g/kg
Potato – 650 g/kg

According to Dr. Gregory K. Ogilvie’s, from Complementary and Alternative Veterinary Medicine, “Nutritional Approaches to Cancer Therapy”: Tumors need glucose to live, which are simple sugars found in many carbohydrates. It gives energy to the tumor, and robs energy from the dog. Further, tests conducted proved that the dogs ability to metabolize carbohydrates is altered in dogs with cancer, unlike the dogs tested who did not have cancer.

Forget for a moment that studies show that today’s kibble is full of deadly mycotoxins (, or that these same bags are full of carcinogens (, let’s just focus on the sugar/carb factor. Do you know how many carbohydrates are in your bag of kibble? Let me teach you how to roughly figure it out in a flash.

Just grab your bag of pet food and a calculator.

First check this out:

According to Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO): “Carbohydrates are not measured directly, but can be estimated by calculating the “nitrogen-free extract” in the product. This is determined simply by subtracting the average of each of the other components (percent crude protein, crude fat, crude fiber, moisture AND ash) from 100.”

However Dr. Sagman from Dog Food Advisor says: “… fiber is actually a carbohydrate. So, its percentage is automatically included in your carbohydrate calculations.”

So let’s go with this guideline: Protein + Fat + Moisture + Ash, then subtract that from 100 = Carbs

(This method works for dry food only; to figure out canned food you need to get the dry matter values.)

After the calculations, pet parents are going to find that some of these bags of kibble have anywhere from 40% to 70% carbs in them, and depending on the type of “cancer cell” your pet has, it can have anywhere from 10 to 70 times more insulin receptors on its cell surface membrane than a regular cell. Imagine, if cancer needs glucose for fuel and one is feeding their cancer pet that many carbohydrates, then in theory you are adding rocket fuel to the cancer growing fire!

Speak to any holistic veterinarian and most will tell you to drop the bag of kibble (or any processed foods for that matter) and start feeding fresh foods packed with bioavailable nutrients to help heal the body. God forbid, imagine you had cancer. Would a diet of chemo and Mac & Cheese help your cancer fighting cause?

Remember, it is super important to boost your pet’s immune system in order to give them a fighting chance to smash cancer and all its negative effects.


Why No Dog With Cancer Should Eat Kibble

Are Potatoes Good For Dogs? (And Other Questions About Starch) – By Dana Scott

Are potatoes good for dogs? Can my dog eat peas? Is a dog food OK as long as it doesn’t have corn, soy or wheat?

These are really common questions here at DNM and they’re valid ones. You want to avoid feeding harmful ingredients to your dog and that’s a good thing. But there’s a lot of marketing out there telling you some carbohydrates (like potatoes and peas) are a healthy addition to your dog’s diet.

But here’s the problem … that marketing is from people who want to sell you their food.

The truth is, there are some pretty compelling reasons not to feed any type of starchy carbohydrate to dogs. Let’s look at the top reasons to avoid starch …

#1 Mycotoxins

Mycotoxins are toxic byproducts of mold or fungus. Mycotoxins contaminate crops before they’re harvested or after they’re stored. They’re most commonly found in corn, barley, wheat, beets, peanuts and cottonseed, but other frequently affected foods include; sorghum, pearl millet, rice, wheat, soybean and sunflower seeds.

One of the most well-known mycotoxins is aflatoxin … and it’s the most carcinogenic (cancer-causing) naturally occurring substance known to man. A global survey conducted between 2004 and 2013 found mycotoxin contamination in over 76% of the samples of grains and byproducts destined for animal foods.

Aflatoxins target many of the organs in dogs but especially the liver, where they can cause toxicity, immunosuppression and cancer.

In the US, both human and pet foods are limited to 20ug of mycotoxin per kg. But grains usually contain several different types of mycotoxins and they can interact with one another to increase their toxicity. And the effects of mycotoxin exposure are cumulative and build up in your pet over time.

A 2015 study published in Animal Feed Science & Technology analyzed 48 commercial dry dog foods for the presence of five different mycotoxins. Half of the foods tested were low price and the other half were premium or super-premium foods.

bad foods for dogs

The study found that all of the lower priced foods and all but one of the premium foods were contaminated with at least two types of mycotoxin. Additionally, 52% of the samples were contaminated with three different mycotoxins while 25% were contaminated with four different types of mycotoxin. One premium brand was contaminated with all five mycotoxins that were tested for.

Many pet food companies test their ingredients for mycotoxin contamination and ask their suppliers for a certificate of analysis showing mycotoxins have been checked. But even if the food is under the allowable FDA limit, it doesn’t account for the dangers of combining mycotoxins. When more than one type of mycotoxin is present, they can interact and become more toxic – so the safe limit is likely only safe if there’s one type of mycotoxin present.

Dr Trevor Smith, an animal and poultry science researcher at the University of Guelph, claims that mycotoxin contamination is the largest concern in pet foods today. According to Smith,

“when half of the food is of vegetable origin, there will always be some degree of contamination. If the food is mainly of animal origin, the chances of contamination are greatly reduced.”

#2 Antinutrients

Antinutrients are naturally occurring or man-made substances in food that can interfere with the absorption of vitamins, minerals and other nutrients, and interfere with digestive enzymes. In a nutshell, they can rob your dog of nutrition. Antinutrients are most commonly found in grains, beans, legumes and nuts.

bad foods for dogs

These include:

1. Phytic Acid (Or Phytate)

Phytic acid is found in grains and legumes (like peas, which are commonly found in grain-free pet foods). It’s an antinutrient because it can bind to important minerals such as copper, iron, magnesium and zinc, and make them unavailable to your dog. Phytic acid can rob your dog of up to 80% of these critical nutrients.

2. Lectins

Lectins are found in large amounts in beans and some grains and, like phytic acid, can also reduce nutrient absorption. But lectins can do more damage than that … they can damage the cells that line your dog’s intestines. When this happens, the ability of nutrients to be able to pass through your dog’s intestines and into his body are affected. It can also disrupt the delicate balance of flora living there and trigger allergy and autoimmune reactions.

There are many other antinutrients in grains and starches, including gluten (which can cause leaky gut syndrome and autoimmune disease), tannins (which can upset the gastrointestinal tract) and oxalates (which can cause kidney stones).

#3 Glycemic Load

glycemic load calculations

The glycemic load of foods is an indication of how quickly it raises the blood sugar. A small, steady amount of carbohydrate or starch in the diet is fairly harmless, but when large amounts of starchy carbohydrate are added to the diet (and most dry dog foods are 30-60% carbohydrate), this can cause obesity and insulin resistance.

Insulin is a hormone found in all humans, dogs and cats. One of insulin’s primary purposes is to get sugar from the blood into the cells. Insulin is the only hormone that does this.

On the other hand, your dog has multiple hormones that raise blood sugar … and this tells us a lot about the type of diet dogs are designed to eat. The body is much better prepared to raise blood sugar when carbohydrate is scarce, than it is to lower it when too much carbohydrate is eaten.

When your dog eats carbohydrates, they’re broken down into glucose, which is the form the body can use for fuel. When this happens, insulin is released to move the blood sugar, or glucose, into the cells. And how quickly this happens is the food’s glycemic load.

The only foods that cause a quick spike in glucose and insulin secretion are carbohydrates.

Why is spiking insulin unhealthy? Over time, the dog’s body will become less sensitive to insulin and insulin resistance can occur. And that’s bad because the pancreas will have to work harder to produce more and more insulin and can become exhausted … and your dog can develop diabetes.

But that’s not the only risk. Insulin resistance can also increase the risk of thyroid disease and some types of cancer. And because one of insulin’s jobs is to store body fat, the dog eating a lot of carbohydrate can become fat … and you’ll find it really hard to take the weight off.

Other Dangers Of Carbohydrate

There are 6 key reasons to avoid starchy carbs in your dog’s diet.

carbohydrates bad for dogs

Given this, you’d think most commercial pet foods would steer clear of carbohydrates. But they don’t!

Why Are Carbs In So Many Foods And Treats?

Why are carbohydrates in so many dog foods and treats?

They’re cheap.

Let’s face it, pet foods can be expensive and carbohydrates can provide energy without adding much cost. But because they’re so nutritionally incomplete, you’ll also see other ingredients added to dog foods to make up for the lack of nutrition in the carbs. So you’ll see:

dog food ingredients

  • Added vitamins
  • Added minerals
  • Added free amino acids (because carbohydrates are an incomplete source of protein)

But if budget isn’t as important as your dog’s health, there are some ways to reduce the carbohydrate load in your dog …

Cutting Back On The Carbs

Ready to cut the carbs out of your dog’s diet? Here are some solutions, listed in order from most desirable to least desirable …

1. Feed A Raw Diet

There’s nothing magical about raw diets … the only reason raw feeders see fewer health issues in their dogs is because they don’t contain starchy carbohydrates. Fruits and vegetables are fine … they don’t contain phytic acid, they have a low glycemic load and they can be loaded with vitamins and minerals. But raw diets are free of peas, potatoes and cereal grains and that’s why so many dogs do so well on them.

2. Cook For Your Dog

This is a tough one because so many cooked diets are loaded with carbohydrates. Fresh foods are always better than processed foods, so if you cook for your dog, try to keep the carbohydrates to less than 10% of the diet and load your dog up on protein and fat instead.

3. Feed A Low Starch Dog Food

Note that I didn’t say feed a grain-free diet. Grain-free diets can be higher in starch than regular foods … they just replace the grains with potatoes and peas.

What you’ll want to find is a food with the least amount of carbohydrate … and that means no more than 15%. The problem is, pet food manufacturers aren’t forced to tell you how much carbohydrate is in the food … so they don’t!

Fortunately, it’s pretty easy to calculate the amount of carbohydrate in your dog’s food.

pet food nutrition

Flip your bag of dog food over and you’ll find something called the Guaranteed Analysis. This is the guaranteed minimum amounts of certain nutrients in the food. Next, find the percentage of protein, fat, moisture and ash and then add them together.

If the ash content isn’t listed on the food, just use 7% for kibble and 2% for canned food. Ash content can vary but for most dry foods it typically ranges from 5% to 8%.

Subtract that total from 100 and that will give you the percentage of carbohydrate in the food. Here’s the math:

Let’s look at a couple of random examples … a regular dry food and a grain-free food (these are completely random and are not an endorsement of any kind).

Here is Fromm Gold Holistic Large Breed Adult Dry Dog Food


If you turn the bag over, you’ll find the Guaranteed Analysis. So let’s plug the numbers in.

100 – (23 (Protein) + 12 (Fat) + 10 (Moisture) + 7 (Ash)) = 48% Carbohydrate

Next let’s look at another food: Addiction Grain-Free Salmon Bleu Dry Dog Food.


Let’s see what the carbohydrate content is in this food:

100 – (24 (Protein) + 13 (Fat) + 10 (Moisture) + 10 (Ash)) = 43% Carbohydrate

You can see that both these foods are very high in carbohydrate. Again, you’ll want to keep your carbs under 15% (and if you start looking at foods, you’ll see that’s a very rare find).

What Happens If You Do Nothing?

The worst thing you can do is to keep doing what you’re doing because your dog “appears” to be healthy. Whether it be weeks, months or years from now, you and your vet probably won’t make the connection between his allergies, cancer, liver or kidney disease, and the lifetime of eating an unnecessary food that can cause very real health issues if it’s fed in excess.

If kibble is all you can afford, then try to add some protein or healthy fat (like hemp oil, eggs or whole fish) to your dog’s diet … at the minimum it will lower the glycemic load and replace some of the missing vitamins and minerals. But doing nothing is setting your dog up to fail.

Don’t rely on pet food companies to tell you what’s right for your dog … even the best companies have to care about their financial health before they can ever consider your dog’s health. Quality ingredients cost money and most dog owners aren’t prepared to pay that price for their dog’s food. Hopefully you’re an exception and you’ll start to see the connection between your dog’s health and the foods that you give him.


Are Potatoes Good For Dogs? (And Other Questions About Starch)