The Surprising Benefits of Green Tripe – By Kristin Clark

Often, people ask me if there is any particular food I recommend most for species-appropriate raw diets. While I always advocate variety—various protein sources, such as chicken, beef, pork, turkey, sheep, and so on—I do also highly recommend feeding green tripe to carnivore pets regularly.


What is green tripe?

What is green tripe, you ask? Tripe is another name for the stomach of ruminating animals, such as cattle, sheep, and goats. You may have seen bleached, processed tripe at the grocery store, but when you are feeding tripe to your carnivore pets, use green tripe, which is the raw, unbleached tripe. Once the tripe is processed and bleached, it has almost no nutritional value whatsoever, but green tripe has a myriad of benefits. Interestingly, green tripe is more brown than green, but it often has a greenish tint from the hay or grass that the animal was digesting. And, because this vegetation has already been broken down and digested by the herbivore, it does not stress the carnivore’s body to consume it.

Sounds kinda gross…so why should I feed it?

When we look at the nutritional analysis of green tripe, we see that the ratio of calcium to phosphorous is about 1:1, which is exactly what our dogs need. And, the calcium and phosphorous are also bioavailable to your dog, which means that they can use all of the calcium and phosphorous supplied by the green tripe. Additionally, green tripe’s overall pH is 6.84, which is slightly acidic and good for digestion. Green tripe contains iron, potassium, zinc, and selenium, along with several other important nutrients. It also contains a large amount of Lactobacillus Acidophilus (probiotic). Green tripe contains the right proportions of Linoleic and Linolenic, which are essential fatty acids (meaning that your dog can’t make their own, but must get them from their food). Green tripe also contains digestive enzymes and amino acids, both of which are vital to supporting the health and vitality of our carnivore pets. It is important, when you feed green tripe, to choose tripe that comes from an animal that wasn’t given antibiotics or hormones, was pasture-fed, and preferably was raised organically. Otherwise, the nutrients can be greatly lessened. Feeding tripe from these types of animals will also ensure your pet gets the most nutrient-rich tripe available, and that they don’t take in anything that will cause their immune system problems.


I’ve heard tripe is worthless and a waste of time to feed…

While some people don’t feel that tripe is beneficial for our carnivore pets, I will say that, based on my own observations of my dogs and my clients’ dogs, it makes a big difference. I’ve done research, and I’ve done a lot of observations, and everything I’ve found supports the nutritional value of tripe (pasture-fed, organic, antibiotic and hormone-free tripe). I think, if you come across something that suggests you shouldn’t feed green tripe, it’s a good idea to take a step back and look at it for yourself. It’s all about being an advocate for your dogs, and doing what YOU think is best, once you’ve done your research and also observed your own dogs.

Here are the sort of questions that go through my own mind when I run into two diametrically opposed points of view, and I’m trying to figure out which is the “right” one (taking tripe as an example): When I look at the information available and nutrient analysis of green tripe, is there anything that would make me think that it’s useless and a fad to feed it? Is my hesitation about feeding it just because of the cost and the fact that someone else is telling me it’s worthless? What sort of research has that person done? Is there any evidence they can offer that would make me think their dogs are the pinnacle of health because they’ve avoided green tripe? And so on. I think it comes down to being as discerning about this as you would anything else. After all, there are lots of people that think a species-appropriate raw food diet is too expensive and is a fad, and don’t have anything to back that up. I tend to think that opinions such as saying green tripe is useless–and make no mistake–opinions like that are, in effect, dismissing whole, real, fresh food…dismissing food that wild animals and our domestic dogs eat when fed in a natural way–are in the same category as opinions that dismiss raw as a fad and no better than kibble at best and dangerous at worst. That’s my opinion, but really, like I said, I think it boils down to you being the advocate for your dogs and using discernment to decide what’s best (not just about tripe–it goes for everything that you come across with raw feeding, because there are so many differing perspectives out there).

Storing tripe

Tripe has a fairly strong smell, so you may want to store and thaw it outside, or in an airtight container if you have to put it in your refrigerator.

Where can I get it?

While there are lots of places that sell green tripe, the one I most frequently use is They are based in California, and they have excellent (and convenient) products, at reasonable prices.

How does it fit into my dog’s prey model diet?

Add green tripe into the rotation of meats you feed your carnivore pet; its nutritional value is excellent, and the probiotics, digestive enzymes, essential fatty acids, and other nutrients it contains will greatly benefit your pet. If you follow the 80/10/10 rule, you can consider tripe to be part of 80% muscle meat.


The surprising benefits of green tripe for your dog

Are Potatoes Good For Dogs? (And Other Questions About Starch) – By Dana Scott

Are potatoes good for dogs? Can my dog eat peas? Is a dog food OK as long as it doesn’t have corn, soy or wheat?

These are really common questions here at DNM and they’re valid ones. You want to avoid feeding harmful ingredients to your dog and that’s a good thing. But there’s a lot of marketing out there telling you some carbohydrates (like potatoes and peas) are a healthy addition to your dog’s diet.

But here’s the problem … that marketing is from people who want to sell you their food.

The truth is, there are some pretty compelling reasons not to feed any type of starchy carbohydrate to dogs. Let’s look at the top reasons to avoid starch …

#1 Mycotoxins

Mycotoxins are toxic byproducts of mold or fungus. Mycotoxins contaminate crops before they’re harvested or after they’re stored. They’re most commonly found in corn, barley, wheat, beets, peanuts and cottonseed, but other frequently affected foods include; sorghum, pearl millet, rice, wheat, soybean and sunflower seeds.

One of the most well-known mycotoxins is aflatoxin … and it’s the most carcinogenic (cancer-causing) naturally occurring substance known to man. A global survey conducted between 2004 and 2013 found mycotoxin contamination in over 76% of the samples of grains and byproducts destined for animal foods.

Aflatoxins target many of the organs in dogs but especially the liver, where they can cause toxicity, immunosuppression and cancer.

In the US, both human and pet foods are limited to 20ug of mycotoxin per kg. But grains usually contain several different types of mycotoxins and they can interact with one another to increase their toxicity. And the effects of mycotoxin exposure are cumulative and build up in your pet over time.

A 2015 study published in Animal Feed Science & Technology analyzed 48 commercial dry dog foods for the presence of five different mycotoxins. Half of the foods tested were low price and the other half were premium or super-premium foods.

bad foods for dogs

The study found that all of the lower priced foods and all but one of the premium foods were contaminated with at least two types of mycotoxin. Additionally, 52% of the samples were contaminated with three different mycotoxins while 25% were contaminated with four different types of mycotoxin. One premium brand was contaminated with all five mycotoxins that were tested for.

Many pet food companies test their ingredients for mycotoxin contamination and ask their suppliers for a certificate of analysis showing mycotoxins have been checked. But even if the food is under the allowable FDA limit, it doesn’t account for the dangers of combining mycotoxins. When more than one type of mycotoxin is present, they can interact and become more toxic – so the safe limit is likely only safe if there’s one type of mycotoxin present.

Dr Trevor Smith, an animal and poultry science researcher at the University of Guelph, claims that mycotoxin contamination is the largest concern in pet foods today. According to Smith,

“when half of the food is of vegetable origin, there will always be some degree of contamination. If the food is mainly of animal origin, the chances of contamination are greatly reduced.”

#2 Antinutrients

Antinutrients are naturally occurring or man-made substances in food that can interfere with the absorption of vitamins, minerals and other nutrients, and interfere with digestive enzymes. In a nutshell, they can rob your dog of nutrition. Antinutrients are most commonly found in grains, beans, legumes and nuts.

bad foods for dogs

These include:

1. Phytic Acid (Or Phytate)

Phytic acid is found in grains and legumes (like peas, which are commonly found in grain-free pet foods). It’s an antinutrient because it can bind to important minerals such as copper, iron, magnesium and zinc, and make them unavailable to your dog. Phytic acid can rob your dog of up to 80% of these critical nutrients.

2. Lectins

Lectins are found in large amounts in beans and some grains and, like phytic acid, can also reduce nutrient absorption. But lectins can do more damage than that … they can damage the cells that line your dog’s intestines. When this happens, the ability of nutrients to be able to pass through your dog’s intestines and into his body are affected. It can also disrupt the delicate balance of flora living there and trigger allergy and autoimmune reactions.

There are many other antinutrients in grains and starches, including gluten (which can cause leaky gut syndrome and autoimmune disease), tannins (which can upset the gastrointestinal tract) and oxalates (which can cause kidney stones).

#3 Glycemic Load

glycemic load calculations

The glycemic load of foods is an indication of how quickly it raises the blood sugar. A small, steady amount of carbohydrate or starch in the diet is fairly harmless, but when large amounts of starchy carbohydrate are added to the diet (and most dry dog foods are 30-60% carbohydrate), this can cause obesity and insulin resistance.

Insulin is a hormone found in all humans, dogs and cats. One of insulin’s primary purposes is to get sugar from the blood into the cells. Insulin is the only hormone that does this.

On the other hand, your dog has multiple hormones that raise blood sugar … and this tells us a lot about the type of diet dogs are designed to eat. The body is much better prepared to raise blood sugar when carbohydrate is scarce, than it is to lower it when too much carbohydrate is eaten.

When your dog eats carbohydrates, they’re broken down into glucose, which is the form the body can use for fuel. When this happens, insulin is released to move the blood sugar, or glucose, into the cells. And how quickly this happens is the food’s glycemic load.

The only foods that cause a quick spike in glucose and insulin secretion are carbohydrates.

Why is spiking insulin unhealthy? Over time, the dog’s body will become less sensitive to insulin and insulin resistance can occur. And that’s bad because the pancreas will have to work harder to produce more and more insulin and can become exhausted … and your dog can develop diabetes.

But that’s not the only risk. Insulin resistance can also increase the risk of thyroid disease and some types of cancer. And because one of insulin’s jobs is to store body fat, the dog eating a lot of carbohydrate can become fat … and you’ll find it really hard to take the weight off.

Other Dangers Of Carbohydrate

There are 6 key reasons to avoid starchy carbs in your dog’s diet.

carbohydrates bad for dogs

Given this, you’d think most commercial pet foods would steer clear of carbohydrates. But they don’t!

Why Are Carbs In So Many Foods And Treats?

Why are carbohydrates in so many dog foods and treats?

They’re cheap.

Let’s face it, pet foods can be expensive and carbohydrates can provide energy without adding much cost. But because they’re so nutritionally incomplete, you’ll also see other ingredients added to dog foods to make up for the lack of nutrition in the carbs. So you’ll see:

dog food ingredients

  • Added vitamins
  • Added minerals
  • Added free amino acids (because carbohydrates are an incomplete source of protein)

But if budget isn’t as important as your dog’s health, there are some ways to reduce the carbohydrate load in your dog …

Cutting Back On The Carbs

Ready to cut the carbs out of your dog’s diet? Here are some solutions, listed in order from most desirable to least desirable …

1. Feed A Raw Diet

There’s nothing magical about raw diets … the only reason raw feeders see fewer health issues in their dogs is because they don’t contain starchy carbohydrates. Fruits and vegetables are fine … they don’t contain phytic acid, they have a low glycemic load and they can be loaded with vitamins and minerals. But raw diets are free of peas, potatoes and cereal grains and that’s why so many dogs do so well on them.

2. Cook For Your Dog

This is a tough one because so many cooked diets are loaded with carbohydrates. Fresh foods are always better than processed foods, so if you cook for your dog, try to keep the carbohydrates to less than 10% of the diet and load your dog up on protein and fat instead.

3. Feed A Low Starch Dog Food

Note that I didn’t say feed a grain-free diet. Grain-free diets can be higher in starch than regular foods … they just replace the grains with potatoes and peas.

What you’ll want to find is a food with the least amount of carbohydrate … and that means no more than 15%. The problem is, pet food manufacturers aren’t forced to tell you how much carbohydrate is in the food … so they don’t!

Fortunately, it’s pretty easy to calculate the amount of carbohydrate in your dog’s food.

pet food nutrition

Flip your bag of dog food over and you’ll find something called the Guaranteed Analysis. This is the guaranteed minimum amounts of certain nutrients in the food. Next, find the percentage of protein, fat, moisture and ash and then add them together.

If the ash content isn’t listed on the food, just use 7% for kibble and 2% for canned food. Ash content can vary but for most dry foods it typically ranges from 5% to 8%.

Subtract that total from 100 and that will give you the percentage of carbohydrate in the food. Here’s the math:

Let’s look at a couple of random examples … a regular dry food and a grain-free food (these are completely random and are not an endorsement of any kind).

Here is Fromm Gold Holistic Large Breed Adult Dry Dog Food


If you turn the bag over, you’ll find the Guaranteed Analysis. So let’s plug the numbers in.

100 – (23 (Protein) + 12 (Fat) + 10 (Moisture) + 7 (Ash)) = 48% Carbohydrate

Next let’s look at another food: Addiction Grain-Free Salmon Bleu Dry Dog Food.


Let’s see what the carbohydrate content is in this food:

100 – (24 (Protein) + 13 (Fat) + 10 (Moisture) + 10 (Ash)) = 43% Carbohydrate

You can see that both these foods are very high in carbohydrate. Again, you’ll want to keep your carbs under 15% (and if you start looking at foods, you’ll see that’s a very rare find).

What Happens If You Do Nothing?

The worst thing you can do is to keep doing what you’re doing because your dog “appears” to be healthy. Whether it be weeks, months or years from now, you and your vet probably won’t make the connection between his allergies, cancer, liver or kidney disease, and the lifetime of eating an unnecessary food that can cause very real health issues if it’s fed in excess.

If kibble is all you can afford, then try to add some protein or healthy fat (like hemp oil, eggs or whole fish) to your dog’s diet … at the minimum it will lower the glycemic load and replace some of the missing vitamins and minerals. But doing nothing is setting your dog up to fail.

Don’t rely on pet food companies to tell you what’s right for your dog … even the best companies have to care about their financial health before they can ever consider your dog’s health. Quality ingredients cost money and most dog owners aren’t prepared to pay that price for their dog’s food. Hopefully you’re an exception and you’ll start to see the connection between your dog’s health and the foods that you give him.


Are Potatoes Good For Dogs? (And Other Questions About Starch)

Kibble is Kibble is STILL Kibble Written by Dr Jeannie Thomason – The Whole dog

Is Kibble bad for our pets?

Dog owners are becoming  confused over what food is the best for their dogs. There seems to be so much conflicting information out there today. Who do you believe? With all the recalls over the last several years, we worry about safety and quality nutrition.

It is so simple to me what the truth is about the best food to feed our dogs however, somewhere along the road over the past 50 years or so, we have all been lead to believe that somehow, by some miracle or perhaps evolution has made our dogs omnivores. This a lie that the majority of pet owners have bought into hook, line and sinker. Not being enough of a lie, we have also been lead to believe that our dogs are after-all, domestic animals so, they are best fed processed, commercial “dog food” that supposedly is nutritionally balanced and scientifically formulated to be healthy for our pets.

We are told that this highly processed, over cooked “stuff” contains whole grains, vegetables and real meat! I mean, after all, look at those wonderful commercials we see on TV about how healthy the food is and our dogs themselves don’t realize they are eating something “good for them, they just know it tastes good”. And after all, don’t our veterinarians carry similar foods and recommend it to us to feed to our dogs as well? Surely schooled veterinarians know what is best for our dogs. After all, what else do you feed a dog but “dog food”, right?

WRONG, oh so wrong!

We have been bombarded with this information for so long and so often that we have come to believe a lie my friends. A LIE produced by the multi-billion dollar pet food industry that sponsors the classes in veterinary colleges that are taught to the veterinary students to scare us all into thinking that we must buy and feed their
“scientifically formulated”, processed food products or our dogs will never really be healthy.

Are you aware that just over the last 25 years dogs (and cats) have been presenting with obesity, kidney disease, diabetes, liver failure, skin disorders, IBD and even cancer by the time they are 5 years old if not younger?! This was rare to un-heard of in our canine companions until this time. Our dogs should live well into their late teens and early twenties with few to no health problems ever seen. Let’s stop and ponder this for a moment. Why do you think dogs are so much sicker these days than ever before in history? Could it be that we are feeding them foods they are not designed to be able to digest in the first place? Could it be that these foods are processed and cooked down until there is NO nutritive value remaining?

Did you know that pet food manufacturers actually spray on a soup of thrown away restaurant grease/cooked fats with synthetic vitamins and other additives to their products before sealing the bags and shipping them out? It is the addition of these synthetic additives, flavor enhancers and some vitamins that are necessary to make the kibble come anywhere close to being able to be called complete and balanced. The ingredients listed on the bag have no nutritive value once processed into what you see when you open the bag. Any nutrition in the ingredients the kibble started out with has been destroyed. However, I am getting just a little ahead of myself here. Let’s start at the beginning.

Dogs are carnivores

If you were to look inside the body of a wolf and a little Japanese Chin (or any breed of dog for that matter); side by side you would see they both have the *exact same kind of teeth, saliva, digestive tracts, stomach acid, kidneys, liver etc. The only difference you would be able to find is that the organs would be smaller in size relative to their bodies. The little Chin would be identical internally in every way to the wolf.

Interesting? After all, the Chin and our domestic dogs today were originally bred from wild dogs/wolves. So, what does a wolf eat? Kibble? Fire roasted carrots and rabbit stew?

*For more information about our dogs being carnivores, please read HERE

Let’s be perfectly clear right here, that processed pet food, (no matter what brand, no matter how much it costs, if the ingredients are organic, or nothing more than road kill and euthanized animals) all ends up the same way – nutritionally DEAD and void of any true nutrition. That’s right, it does not matter what “raw materials” you start out with; whether it is premium, grass fed, organic beef, lamb or what have you, the final product is pretty much the same as the cheapest kibble you can buy at the grocery store.

How can this be?

First of all let’s see what the pet food industry really means when they label their ingredients as “natural” or “organic”.

Because our United States government has never bothered to define “natural” for human foods, this word essentially means anything the manufacturer says it does, especially when it comes to pet food.

AAFCO’s official definition is:
NATURAL: A feed or ingredient derived solely from plant, animal or mined sources, either in its unprocessed state or having been subject to physical processing, heat processing, rendering, purification, extraction, hydrolysis, enzymolysis or fermentation, but not having been produced by or subject to a chemically synthetic process and not containing any additives or processing aids that are chemically synthetic except in amounts as may occur unavoidably in good manufacturing processes.

Did You GET THAT?? You can render or extrude a pet food into mush, but it’s still considered “natural” if you haven’t added anything synthetic, unless you had to.

AAFCO also says that labeling something “natural” must not be misleading; but even AAFCO knows this is impossible. Pet food companies may in reality NOT add anything synthetic in the main raw materials for the food. However, typically they buy bulk mixtures of vitamins, minerals and other additives to spray on the finished product from factories overseas, where, as we all learned in the 2007 pet food recalls, quality controls are for the most part more nonexistent then they are here.


Officially, the word organic refers to anything that is now, or ever was, alive. Your dog is organic according to this – your lawn is. Your salad is. Your newspaper is, you are! Yes, this means that without any real quality control over pet food manufacturing that they may say their food is organic if they use once live meat or veggies in the “raw materials” they start out with for their unique formula.

Now, to even begin to understand the pet food industry we need to look at the “raw material” as it is received at the plant. Typically, the slaughterhouse for animal carcasses is one of the main suppliers of material to the rendering industry. To prevent condemned meat from being re-routed and used for human consumption, government regulations require that the meat be “denatured” before being sent to the rendering plants. Nice word, but what does that mean? Basically it means that first it must be contaminated in some way that would make it virtually unusable for human consumption. Some of the materials used to accomplish this task are: carbolic acid, creosote, fuel oil, kerosene, citronella, etc. Once this stuff has literally soaked into the meat, it’s then fit to be sent on to the rendering plant.

Rendering plants are piled high with “raw product/material” consisting of a mixture of whole bodies and animal parts, plastic bags, Styrofoam packages, metal tags, pet collars-anything and everything that is considered to be “waste”- but suitable for recycling.

“Rendering” is the beginning process of cooking the raw animal material (truly organic range free chicken or rendering plant carcasses) to remove the moisture and fat. In the processing of pet food, all the raw materials used to make the pet food are first blended in order to maintain a certain ratio between the contents e.g. animal carcasses and supermarket rejects. Then, the carcasses are loaded into a 10- foot deep stainless-steel pit or hopper with an auger-grinder at the bottom that grinds up the ingredients into small pieces. These pieces are then taken to another auger-grinder for even finer shredding. Once shredded fine enough, the shredded material is then cooked at 280 degrees Fahrenheit for 60 minutes (the amount of time and temperature the U.S. uses, those in Britain and Europe may differ slightly but, remember the high temperature and the amount of time it is cooked). This part of the processing /cooking causes the meat to melt off of bones to produce a soup or slurry.

The cooked meat and bone slurry, along with any metal, pesticides, etc. that may have been in what was rendered down are then sent to a hammermill press, which squeezes out the remaining moisture and pulverizes the product into a gritty powder. Once the batch is finished, all that is left is yellow grease, “meat” and bone meal. Depending on the dominant ingredient of a particular run, the product now becomes: beef, chicken, lamb, meat meal, meat by products, poultry meal, fish meal, fish oil, yellow grease, tallow, beef fat, chicken fat, etc. You will never see on the label any signs of using dog meal, cat meal, skunk meal, rat meal, or any of the other “goodies” but “its in there”. If the raw materials came from a slaughter house then it is mixed in with the everyday batches of “raw material”.

The term “meal” on a pet food label simply means that the materials in the meal have been rendered. The quality and content of the meal may be variable across batches. In the USA, this means that some question the nutritional value of the by-products. James Morris and Quinton Rogers, two professors with the Department of Molecular Biosciences, University of California at Davis Veterinary School of Medicine, felt there was a lack of information on the bioavailability of nutrients of pet food ingredients. The pet food labels give the supposed nutritional adequacy, but think about it, there are no true nutrients left from the processing so all that you can really look at is the vitamin mixture and additives they spray on at the end of processing. Not only this but these “nutrients” are no good if they are in a form indigestible by the pet which is normally the case since these vitamins, etc. are synthetic/man made.

Once the meal is made or sent to the pet food manufacturing plant, they then add their own “enhancers” (i.e. preservatives, food dye, synthetic vitamins, etc.) and put it through an expander or extruder. It is then pressure-cooked (steam, pressure, at very high temperatures again) and becomes a paste which is extruded through pipes which shape the blobs of paste into small biscuits or other uniform shapes. These are then puffed like popcorn and baked or dried again before being sprayed a final time with fat, digests, and the synthetic vitamins and flavor enhancers.

In some cases, the cooked meat and bone go directly into a press, which squeezes out the remaining moisture and pulverizes the product into a gritty powder. The grit is then sifted to remove the excess hair and large bone chips; although, at times larger bone chips and hair do get past the sifting process as some owners can attest to finding in the resulting kibble. This is then added to cereal fines (processed grains) and any cooked, ground vegetables they will be using; which may then be made into paste, baked and broken into pieces and then sprayed with fat, digests, vitamins and flavor enhancers.

Facts regarding the effects of heat during processing.

The processing effectively kills off any beneficial enzymes, amino acids, etc. It does NOT kill off or get rid of the sodium Phenobarbital in the carcasses of any euthanized animals that may have been used.

Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs) are formed when food is cooked at high temperatures (including when it is pasteurized, sterilized or extruded). When the food is eaten, it transfers the AGEs into the body. AGEs build up in the body over time leading to oxidative stress, inflammation and an increased risk of heart disease, diabetes and kidney disease.

At 110 degrees Fahrenheit (approximately 43 degrees Centigrade), two of the 8 essential amino acids, tryptophan and lysine, are destroyed.

When food is cooked above 117 degrees F for only three minutes or longer, the following deleterious changes begin and progressively cause increased nutritional damage as higher temperatures are applied over prolonged periods of time:

*proteins coagulate

*high temperatures denature protein molecular structure, leading to deficiency of some essential amino acids

*carbohydrates caramelize

*overly heated fats generate numerous carcinogens including acrolein, nitrosamines, hydrocarbons, and benzopyrene (one of the most potent cancer-causing agents known)

*natural fibers break down, cellulose is completely changed from its natural condition: it loses its ability to sweep the alimentary canal clean

*30% to 50% of vitamins and minerals are destroyed

*100% of enzymes are damaged, the body’s enzyme potential is depleted which drains energy needed to maintain and repair tissue and organ systems, thereby shortening the life span.

Remember, the rendering process alone takes place at a minimum of 280 degrees Fahrenheit for 60 minutes!

When proteins are subjected to high heat during cooking, enzyme resistant linkages are formed between the amino acid chains. The body cannot separate these amino acids. What the body cannot use, it must eliminate. Cooked proteins become a source of toxicity: dead organic waste material acted upon and elaborated by bacterial flora.

According to the textbook Nutritional Value of Food Processing, 3rd Edition, (by Karmas, Harris, published by Van Nostrand Reinhold) which is written for food chemists in the industrial processed food industry: changes that occur during processing either result in nutrient loss or destruction. Heat processing has a detrimental effect on nutrients since thermal degradation of nutrients can and does occur. Reduction in nutrient content depends on the severity of the thermal processing.

Kibble causes inflammation in our pet’s bodies

Kibble food has a high starch. All kibble must contain some form of starch to allow the ingredients to “stick” or bind together. Commonly used starches include various grains (corn, wheat, oat, rice, millet), pea flour, potato or tapioca among others. These foods are first of all, not able to be digested by carnivores – they lack the enzyme amylase that omnivores have in good supply to break down these starches. Secondly, starches are converted to sugars in the body which in turn cause inflammation by stimulating insulin release. High insulin levels over a lifetime can lead to a host of inflammatory processes.

Inflammation is the activation of the immune system in response to irritation, infection or injury. Characterized by an influx of white blood cells, redness, heat, swelling, pain, and dysfunction of the organs involved, inflammation has different names when it appears in different parts of the body.

Actually, the “dry” nature of the kibble can, in and of itself, cause inflammation. This is because it causes a short-term dehydrated state in the intestines, making the digestive process even more difficult.

So, it is easy to see that no matter what wonderful (or not so wonderful) ingredients the pet food company may start out with, the rendering, cooking, drying, canning and baking (at high temperatures) destroy vitamins, amino acids and enzymes while rendering the proteins a source of toxicity.

In my opinion, it is no coincidence at all that since 1950, as processed food proliferated for both humans and pets, that not only have cancer rates steadily increased to the highest point in history but, we are seeing an increase in liver disease, diabetes, IBD, chronic skin ailments and other once un-heard of dis-eases in our pets today.

The un-healthy effects of consuming cooked food into a digestive system never designed to eat cooked food in the first place, is stretching it to even be considered minimal nutrition. Feeding kibble forces the animal’s body to raid its dwindling supply of nutrient reserves and enzymes which in turn, causes it to remain hungry for quality nutrients after a typical meal. This leads to further hunger even though the stomach is full. The result can be chronic overeating and the rampant obesity now seen in our dogs as well as ourselves nationwide.

We have not even talked about the GMOs in pet food and the toxic affects they have on our pets!

I am often berated for recommending a raw diet as being the very best for our carnivorous pets however, after all my research, education and the experience of feeding my own dogs a raw meaty bone diet for over 20 years now, I can have seen firsthand how much healthier and longer lived our pets can be if fed a species appropriate, fresh, raw meat and bones diet. All the nutrients are there – alive, naturally balanced and complete. Unlike Kibble that is all the same in the end – it still dead, processed, void of life or nutrition – no matter what great ingredients it may have or have not started out with.